Custom Clothes Make The Man - Part 1 - Suits, Sports Jackets, Pants, Trousers, And Topcoats

Up until the late eighteenth century, it was often the man who dressed more flamboyantly than the woman, his wardrobe filled with laces and bows as well as high-heeled shoes with shiny buckles. Even our presidents were not immune, as a sartorially splendid George Washington appeared at his first Inaugural wearing a brocade jacket, lace shirt, silver appointments, and high-heeled shoes with diamond buckles.
However, as the country changed, so did clothing styles. With the emphasis on democracy and the glorification of the common man, clothing became less ornate, less ostentatious. By the time Thomas Jefferson was inaugurated, he followed the fashion of his time by taking the oath wearing a plain blue coat, drab colored waistcoat, green velveteen breeches with pearl buttons, yarn stockings, and slippers.
At the turn of this century, menswear was still heavily influenced by the Victorian era, as reflected in suits which at times resembled an extension of the upholstered look of the Victorian furniture popular in American homes in the period.
And yet the first decade of this century saw the important introduction of the sack suit, a style characterized by any shapeless coat without a waist seam, the body and skirt having been cut in one piece, and the Ivy League - style clothing from England. It was also during this period that certain other fashion innovations began to appear, such as the polo coat (introduced from England by Brooks Brothers around 1910) and the button-down collar (also introduced by John Brooks, in 1900, after heดd discovered it being worn by polo players in England in order to prevent flapping during play).
The 1920s were a time of experimentation, as the suit silhouette turned to the natural-shoulder look, and the first sports jacket - the Norfolk, modeled after the hunting suit worn by the Duke of Norfolk in the early eighteenth century - was produced. This decade also saw the rise and fall of jazz clothing, which had little semblance of balance or respect for the human form, with its inordinately long, tight-fitting jackets and narrow trousers; the cake-eater suit, named for college students who wore this slightly exaggerated copy of the natural- shoulder suit; and the knicker suit, featuring plus - four knickers that fell four inches below the knee. The 1930s was undoubtedly the most elegant period for menswear, as men gravitated toward the English drape style and the sportswear industry exploded. The British drape suit made it safely into the 1940s, though it was then referred to as the British blade, British lounge, and, finally, as the “lounge suit,” a fitting name for its casually elegant style.
World War II resulted in a marked austerity in dress, due in large part to the restrictions placed on the clothing industry by the War Production Board. After the war, men were ready for another change in their clothing styles, and in 1948 the “bold look” began to be seen.
The 1950s are best remembered for the “gray flannel suit” worn by the conservative businessman. Now men were back to the natural-shoulder silhouette. As reported in Apparel Arts ด75 Years of Fashion, “No style was ever so firmly resisted, so acrimoniously debated - or more enthusiastically received in various segments of the industry. Natural shoulder styling eventually became the major style influence. Brooks Bros., once a ดcitadel of conservatism,ด became a font of fashion as the new ดIvy Cultด sought style direction. Charcoal and olive were the colors.”
In addition to the introduction of man-made fibers, this period also saw the arrival of the Continental Look from France and Italy, featuring short jackets and broad shoulders, a shaped waistline, slanting besom pockets, sleeve cuffs, short side vents, and tapered, cuffless trousers. This “slick” look made little inroad on those who were staunch adherents of the more conservative Ivy League look, but it was a significant phenomenon nonetheless, as it moved Americans further away from the stylish elegance of the 1930s.
The sixties brought the Peacock Revolution - a phrase popularized in this country by George Frazier, a former columnist for Esquire magazine and the Boston Globe - which began on Carnaby Street in London and featured a whole array of new looks, including the Nehru jacket and the Edwardian suit. In contrast to the fifties, during which time choices were limited, a wide range of alternatives was now available as the focus moved to youth and protest. The designer Pierre Cardin even created an American version of the slim-lined European silhouette, which, along with the immense popularity of jeans, led to the acceptance of extreme fittedness in clothing - a far cry from the casual, comfortable elegance of preceding generations.
During this period, the American designer Ralph Lauren was attempting to convince the American male that there was a viable alternative to this high-style clothing. This alternative was a version of the two-button shaped suit with natural shoulders that had been introduced by Paul Stuart in 1954 and briefly popularized by John Kennedy during his presidency. Lauren updated the Stuart suit by using the kind of fabrics usually reserved for custom-made suits and dramatizing the silhouette by enlarging the lapel and giving more shape to the jacket. Laurenดs following remained small, however, as most men leaned toward the jazzier Cardin-style suit.
The seventies were the era of the designer. They were also a time of intense fashion experimentation, coming at a point when the largest growth in the number of people buying fashions occurred and manufacturers tried desperately to capture the one- third of the buying public that was spending two-thirds of the money. Toward the end of the decade, after years of following the fitted clothing styles of Milan and Paris, there was a dramatic turnaround as a number of European designers and manufacturers began biting off pieces of the American style of dress. Brooks Brothersด baggy garments and button-down shirts, both indigenously American, began to be produced in European versions, for Europeans had suddenly become attracted to the looser, more comfortable style of dress and were eschewing the tight-fitting silhouette theyดd embraced in the past.
While the European look still retained a foothold among American men (represented by designers such as Giorgio Armani, Basile, and Gianni Versace), the pendulum had begun to swing in the direction of a less stylized, more natural-fitting garment. A new generation of American designers joined Ralph Lauren in presenting an updated, purely American style of clothing.
Today, American menดs designers are continuing to rediscover the traditions of their past, exploring the American heritage in menswear. Of particular interest to most is the 1930s, the era of elegance, in which designers continue to find much to inspire them. Yet the experience of the last twenty years has taught them that men want not only quality, shape, and elegance but comfort as well. Clothes that lead the marketplace today are made of high-quality materials. They are soft and comfortable, but their designs still reflect the qualities of traditional Old World style.
For nearly two hundred years now, men in prominent positions have been going to work wearing proper business suits. Over the years, there have been occasional rebellions against this custom, and, in fact, a mere twenty years ago the future of business suits in this country looked bleak, as dire predictions of men appearing at work wearing jump suits and the like abounded. Yet today, perhaps more then ever before, the business suit is the accepted uniform of the successful entrepreneur.
Naturally, this brings to mind the following questions: Why has the business suit enjoyed this longevity? What purpose does it serve? Why should a man even bother wearing one when it seems to limit self-expression and stifle individuality?
Perhaps a starting point in responding to these questions appears in an advertisement placed by the pre-eminent menดs clothing store, Paul Stuart, which states that “a proper function of the business suit is to offer a man a decent privacy so that irrelevant reactions are not called into play to prejudice what should be purely business transactions.”

While this is certainly true, there is no reason why a man in a business suit has to look bland. Even in a business situation, it is possible to dress within certain professional parameters while still managing to avoid the trap of looking as if one just walked off the assembly line. The business suit can and should at least offer the suggestion of character and a sense of individuality. If, for instance, one works in advertising as opposed to banking, one can get away with a bit more verve in a suit rather than adhering to the more conservative look required in the latter profession. But even a man working in banking should not exempt himself from thinking about dress, for whatever one wears says something about the wearer.
More than any other single item of clothing, it is the suit that ultimately determines the overall style of a manดs dress. Although the shirt, tie, and hose all have an important contribution to make to a manดs style, none plays nearly so major a role as the suit, which, since it covers 80 percent of the body, actually defines the general mood and impression of oneดs appearance. Accessories should relate to the suit and not vice versa. To think otherwise would be tantamount to beginning the decoration of an empty apartment by first purchasing an ashtray.
THE SILHOUETTE
“The silhouette” is the term used by the clothing industry to describe the cut or shape of a suit. Women have long realized that the shape of a garment sets the tone of their appearance, but only recently have men realized that they too have a choice of styles that accomplish the same important task for them.
For this reason, the silhouette should be the primary consideration in the purchase of any suit. The fabric and details, which may add to a suitดs attractiveness, and even the fit should be of secondary concern, since it is the silhouette that actually determines the longevity of the garment. If this statement sounds the least bit dubious, think of the tight- fitting rope-shouldered, wide-lapeled, flared-bottom suits of fifteen years ago. Where are they now? In all likelihood, if one still owns these garments, itดs been some time since theyดve seen the light of day.
Today, there are three distinct silhouettes that have demonstrated their longevity: the sack suit, the European-cut suit, and the updated American-style suit. The first two choices offer distinctly different approaches to dressing: the sack disguises the figure of a man, while the European model leaves little to the imagination. The third style, the updated American-style suit, is almost an amalgam of the other two, hiding the body as well as flattering it. To my mind, it is the one silhouette that looks most comfortable on the American physique: casual, but eminently proper, stylish but without the studied elegance of the European model.
The Sack, or Brooks Brothers Natural-Shoulder, Suit
The sack, or the Brooks Brothers natural-shoulder, suit has been, for almost a century now, the backbone of American clothing. First popularized near the turn of the century, it was a silhouette characterized by a shapeless, nondarted jacket with narrow shoulders (which were soft and unpadded) as well as by flap pockets, a single rear vent, and a three- or four-button front. Designed large in order to fit many sizes, it was the first mass-produced suit and it looks it. After all, it was not called the sack suit for nothing.
Perhaps the biggest strength of the sack silhouette is also its basic weakness: it hides the shape of its wearer and takes away any sense of individuality. The reason it has managed to exist successfully for such a long period of time is simply that it appeals to the common denominator. Since it is so anonymous, it offends no one, enabling the wearer to walk into any environment and be acceptably attired.
For those seeking anonymity in their clothing, or wishing to hide an ungainly figure, this may be an acceptable style. But for anyone else, the sack-style suit is woefully inappropriate.
The European Silhouette
Only since the late 1960s has the European-cut silhouette been a major factor on the American scene. This shape relies upon severity of line to project its style. The dominant shape and style in France and Italy for the past thirty years, it has been maintained in a jacket with squarish shoulders, high armholes, and a tight fit through the chest and hips. It is two- buttoned, its back is usually non-vented, and it has a much more structured feel to it than the sack suit. The trousers tend to have a lower rise and fit more snugly through the buttocks and thigh, sitting just under the waist so that one feels them fitting through the hips and thigh, hugging the line of the leg.
As Stephen Birmingham pointed out in Vogue, European men liked to “ ดfeelด the clothes they wore...a man in a European-cut suit was very much aware that he was inside something. Sitting down was a delicate operation, and crossing the legs was not to be undertaken lightly....”
In the 1960s and ด70s, the European fit gained much popularity in this country, in part because of the mass acceptance of jeans and the notion that clothes ought to express a manดs physicality. This silhouette offered a radical alternative to the sack suit and appealed particularly to women, who perhaps unintentionally promoted this exaggerated style, which emphasizes a manดs sexuality at the cost of subtlety and comfort. While it is true that a man wearing this silhouette did look thinner, it is also clear that he was compromising taste and style in order to feel thin.
After the initial excitement of this style wore off, American men realized they were projecting a character that was not their own. Europeans, after all, have long dressed in a more formal, studied manner. Their clothing evolved to reflect not only their thin and lithe body types, but also their penchant for elegance and formality. Americans, on the other hand, have always preferred a more subtle and casual style. With their broader shoulders and wider chests, they require a softening in the lines of their clothing, not the hard angles identified with
the European styles. Recognizing this, they are returning in greater numbers to endemic styles that are designed to complement their larger physiques; clothing that is soft and comfortable, but with a tasteful subtlety that is the purest idiom of the
American heritage.
The Updated American Silhouette
The updated American silhouette is a combination of the best elements of the sack and the European-cut suit. The jacket has some of the same softness and fullness through the chest and shoulder areas of the sack, to which it adds some of the European notion of shape.
Long the staple of fine dressers, from Clark Gable to Fred Astaire to Cary Grant, this soft, shaped suit was essentially a spin-off from the sack. The three-button sack coat was modified to a two-button version with some suppression at the waist by Paul Stuart. As mentioned earlier, this style was then modified further by Ralph Lauren, beginning in the mid-1960s. Both his espousal of it and the subsequent support of a score of young American designers gained, for this updated American style, the national recognition and the widespread acceptance it has today.
Like the European model, the new American-style jacket is tapered at the waist, giving the wearer something of a V-shaped appearance. The jacket, with its two-button design, has a longer lapel roll. In further contrast to the sack, this style also has a somewhat higher armhole and the chest is a bit smaller. All these details work to give it more definition than its dour predecessor.
These modifications give the updated American suit a freedom that allows the materials to adapt themselves to the wearerดs physique. This is as it should be. Angular clothing tends to impose itself on the body. It has its own shape, and the wearer must fit into it rather than the other way around. The adaptation of clothing to the wearerดs physique, on the other hand, is the ideal expression of oneself. Like a good haircut, the cut of a suit should never call attention to itself. Elegance or style can be achieved only through softness of line. This is why the updated American-style suit jacket has a modified natural shoulder and is cut with a slight taper at the waist, while the trousers take their line from the shape of a manดs leg.
This article is credited to Alan Flusser

By www.mycustomtailor.com

Assessing A Custom Garment's Fit - Mens Custom Made Suits, Vests, Trousers, Tuxedos, Coats

VESTS

Most men’s suits come two-piece, since adding a third element increases their price. However, the vest has always been favored by those style-conscious men who appreciate the quiet resplendence of a third layer of wool. The businessman in his three-piece suit who removes his jacket in the office can rely on the dressiness of his waistcoat to retain some decorum while enjoying the freedom of shirt sleeved attire. A vest also augments a suit’s versatility, as its exclusion from a three-piece ensemble creates a different look.

The properly fitted vest should be long enough for its fifth button from the top to cover the trouser waistband, yet not so long that its points extend below the hip. A well-made vest has its own definite waistline, which is where the trouser waistband should hit. Men who prefer low-rise trousers that rest on the hips should avoid vests. Belts and vests should also choose other dance partners, since belts not only add further bulk to the already layered waistline, but tend to poke out from under the vest. When the suit’s trousers are supported by braces, with their pleats spilling out from under the waistcoat, the single-breasted ensemble achieves a tailored swank afforded only by the addition of this third layer.

A waistcoat should not have a skintight fit. It should be cut full enough to allow its wearer to sit comfortably with its back belt done up to keep it from riding up the trouser waistline. The top of the vest should be high enough to peek out above the waist-buttoned coat. A classic suit vest has four welt pockets, with a six-buttoned designed to leave the bottom button undone. Better-designed vests have their fronts slightly curved to conform to the single-breasted jacket’s rounded fronts. A waistcoat’s back should be longer than its front. This length is needed to cover the waistband should a man choose to bend forward. The vest’s back lining usually matches the jacket’s sleeve lining. Vests without adjustable rear belts or whose fronts and backs are of equal length are usually poorly designed and cheaply made.

Right down to its unbuttoned, cutaway bottom, the man’s tailored vest is a legacy of upper-class fashion. Even the way it is worn is a tribute to royal style. Having unbuttoned his waistcoat to relieve the pressure on his royal ampleness, Edward VII neglected to do up the eccentric fashion ensured which survives to this day.


TROUSERS

The cut of today’s tailored suit trouser is much more classic in shape than its predecessor from the fitted era. Pants have recovered from the hip-hugging jeans mentality of the sixties and the tight, plain-front Continental pant of the seventies. In the nineties, most men’s trousers have a longer rise, deeper pleats, and full-cut thighs that taper down to the ankles – exactly the way the great tailors originally designed them – to give comfort and follow the lines of the body.

During the Second World War, when the U.S. government required manufacturers to conserve fabric, plain-front trousers became standard issue, retaining their popularity throughout the gray-flannel, Ivy League era. However, all suit trousers should have pleats, just as most custom trousers did prior to the war. Pleated pants look dressier and their fuller fronts provide greater comfort than plain-front trouser: hips widen when the wearer is seated, and with less wear to the trouser. Objects placed in a front pants pocket are better concealed within a pleated trouser than a pleatless one.

The classically designed pleated trouser has two pleats on either side of its fly – a deep one near the fly and a shallower one near the pocket to help keep the main pleat closed. This arrangement maintains the working relationship between the two pleats. The current trend for multiple pleat or some other gimmick of fancified fullness reminds ma of the recent gilding of the necktie with overwrought prints, a fad that was as fleeting as it was excessive.

While having your trousers fitted, make sure the pleats are not opening . Look down to see if each leg’s front crease intersects the middle of each kneecap and finishes in the middle of each shoe. If it is off at all, the crease should err toward the inside of the trouser. A crease that falls outside the knee creates the illusion of breadth, something most men prefer to avoid.

The trouser bottom should rest with a slight break on the top of the shoe. It should be long enough to cover the hose when a man is in stride. Its width should cover about two-thirds of the shoe’s length. Cuff give the trouser bottom weight, helping to define the pleat’s crease while maintaining the trouser’s contact with the shoe. Like any detail of classic tailoring, cuff width should be neither so narrow nor so wide that it call attention to itself. To provide the proper balance, the cuffs should be 1 5/8” for a person under five feet ten, 1 3/4 if he is taller. Cuffs of 1 1/7” or 2” reflect the erratic ness of their master: fashion

By www.mycustomtailor.com

Products And Services Update - August 2002

Greetings from www.priceyoursuit.comFirstly, we would like to thank all our clients for their very valuable patronage and we would like to thank our resellers for the constant support and encouragement we receive from them.
This encourages us to do even better and to surpass the already high standards of work we maintain.
Our clients and our resellers are the life blood of our business without whom, we would be nothing and nowhere. You are the reason for our success and we whole heartedly Thank You for it.
Because of our sense of obligation to our clients, supporters and friends, we issue this advance notice of some changes that will be instigated at our website in the beginning of September 2002.

We are delighted to confirm that per our constant endeavor to improve on our quality and workmanship, we are, as of the 1st of August 2002, instigating the following upgrades to our finished products.
The fabric line has been totally overhauled in the past couple of months to reflect higher quality materials, finer wools and better quality cottons and silks.
We have overhauled and improved all our production processes from order processing to actual production and eventual delivery. New machines have been introduced to the production line to improve the speed and quality of workmanship of all custom clothing.
We are sure clients who have placed orders recently will have noticed the marked difference in the quality of finished product delivered and the speed of execution and delivery of all orders.

For example, all custom made shirts will have improved and more advanced fusions on the collars and even finer stitching on the shirt body. The lining on all our jackets have been upgraded to a finer grain satin cloth that is even more durable and smooth to wear.
Interlocking on the pants has been upgraded to a tighter weave that is more durable.
Other details and services including interactive features of the MyAccounts section have been redone to serve the needs of our clients even better and we now have available, possibilities to order swatches for first hand viewing.

Due to an increase in our costing structure because of the product upgrades and improvements, we would like to inform you that some of our prices will be revised in early September to meet and address the needs of an even higher quality finished product.
Fluctuating exchange rates, increases in courier and logistics charges after September 11, 2001 and other general increases in operating costs require us to reflect these increases in our product prices.
We have not increased our prices in the last two plus years and have in fact reduced some of the prices around a year and a half ago.
However, the present realities must also be taken into consideration.
The price revisions are not going to be drastic, but revisions nevertheless. We expect to revise prices between five and ten percent from existing pricing structures.

I do hope this does not deter you from using our services and I hope for the continued support and patronage of all our clients and friends.

Thanking you, We remain with best regards,
your E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

September Update At www.mycustomtailor.com

Greetings from Mycustomtailor.com and welcome to our September update

What’s out at Priceyoursuit.com? – you would have noticed our recent introduction of the summer collections at our website. With the close of summer, this collection has now been discontinued in preparation for the upcoming holiday and winter season.

What’s new at www.priceyoursuit.com - Over the next week, new fabrics of 9 oz and higher is being introduced for the coming cool season. A range of new colours in the existing fabric ranges are being added to our online displays as well.

What’s coming up? – Soon we will be launching a brand new collection of designer fabrics from Zegna, Wein Shield, Dolce and Gabbana and others in a dedicated designer collection a step above the rest. Our recent introduction of these fabrics in our HERITAGE GOLD has met with much enthusiasm encouraging us to offer even more choice in the premier fabric levels. Response has been astounding to the designer collections beyond our expectation. Look out for Zegna and Dolce Gabbanna in the coming weeks.

New Categories – In preparation of winter, we have launched very special prices on overcoats and winter jackets through out all our collections and have recently introduced custom made coats in Pure Italian Mink Cashmere in our DELUXE COLLECTIONS.
This fabric is the ultimate in soft cashmere jacketing and has a uniquely rich gloss that would make a coat in this stand out!

Extra Special this month - Only via this September Update - Get a special price on 1 Single Breasted Suit, 1 Cotton Shirt and 1 Necktie from our EXCLUSIVE COLLECTIONS and an Extra Special price on a package of 2 Single Breasted Suits, 2 Cotton Shirts and 2 Ties from our CLASSIC COLLECTIONS - Only This Month! Only Now! Order it while the Offer is still On!

Tuxedos and Accessories – we have revised our prices and offers for tuxedos and some of the accessories which make our pricing even more attractive than they already were. We recommend you to avail of our special prices in preparation of the holiday season to your advantage.

New Functionality – We have now launched the added ability to do fabric searches using additional criteria such as fabric weights, fabric compositions, fabric patterns and climate for wear. One can also view these fabric characteristics in the fabric lists after style selections. This functionality was much in demand and we found it a nice feature to offer for those not too familiar with the different materials and what is ideal for their sartorial requirements. We hope this added functionality will help make better choices in the type of cloth one would like for ones custom clothing. Over the next few days you will notice all the fabrics displaying their very unique characteristics addressing your needs even better. Soon we will also be adding a rating system for the materials that will show what the most popular fabrics are and how clients who ordered garments in those materials found them to be. This will be a direct feedback on materials that can be so useful in making choices of which fabrics to choose for your custom garments.

New upgrades – Have been introduced with the new option of fully hand basted canvas front on jackets and exclusive bespoke work on custom suits. Your custom made suits and coats can now boast of prime hand sewn canvas and bespoke construction upon demand. It will be harder for Saville row to compete now!


What’s going out ? – We are going to be discontinuing our CloseOuts category in the next couple of weeks. For those who have used our services before, this may be the perfect time to order custom clothing at throwaway prices!
For those who have never availed of our services before, this may be an excellent opportunity to try out our products and services at extremely affordable prices that leave little to risk.

Swatches and Catalogues – Recently introduced are our new Swatch Requisition forms to order swatches and digital catalogues for super fast delivery by courier for a small premium. The cost premium for courier delivery is however refunded using a gift certificate of an equal value. The gift certificate can be redeemed when you place your next order with us. This is so that we can ensure minimal time overlay for those seriously interested in placing an order with us. In essence therefore, the swatches get delivered quickly and efficiently via couriers, at no extra charge whatsoever. Please visit us to order your swatches or our digital catalogues in preparation of the coming season.


Measurements forms – Our measurements forms have been upgraded to reflect even more detail in the patterns we prepare for your custom clothing. We now have begun taking into account the lay of the shoulder, the fall of the arm, the lay of the waist, the back, neck and the ride of the legs to create even better fitting custom garments. May we urge our existing clients who set up measurements profiles quite some time ago, to visit our Measurements forms and add in the additional details as requested so that they can be incorporated into all your future orders.

Accessibility – Has been made even easier for you to get in direct touch with us and a 24 hour hotline has been set up for you at + 66 1 9878717. Please feel free to call us any time of the day, any day of the week at our hotline for immediate addressing of all your queries. For our clients in the USA, we have introduced a local fax number at 17039975593 as an additional, cheaper and more convenient way to communicate with us.

Our Favorite Testimonial this month – By Larry K...........Burr Ridge, Illinois, USA. He has made us proud of what we do. Here is what he says…

Your service has been amazing! I needed a summer suit for a trip to St Thomas Island, but there is nothing like that here in Chicago as the stores have gone into their winter inventory already. So turned to you in desperation, but my friends all thought it was going to be a disaster, ordering suit by mail from someone in another country. It will not come, it will not fit, it will not have any buttons, and the zipper will be in the back they all said. But I kept getting e-mails from you, telling of your progress in making the suit. They made me feel pretty special-- maybe I would get the suit in time, but would it fit? I did not fill out all those measurements on the order form, and just ordered by size. Would you send me something to fit an Asian gentleman? Would the lapels look like the wings of an eagle? Would I look like a German trying to play Charlie Chan? Today I got your e-mail saying it was shipped. I am not kidding you when I say that the United Parcel truck pulled up 10 minutes later and delivered the suit. It looks great. The fit is perfect. I just do not know how you got everything right, even to the length on the pants. Thanks for your great service and professionalism and skill. I will give your card to my friends.

- Thank you Mr. K……we are humbled by your comments and We Promise to do even better!


We do hope you enjoyed this update and we look forward to seeing you soon at www.mycustomtailor.com for all your sartorial needs.

Custom Tailor Made Clothing By Mens Custom Tailors

Since the price of a suit constitutes most men’s single largest clothing outlay, unless you are confident of your ability to select the best one, I recommend that you prepare accordingly, Wearing something that is reasonably representative of what you are shopping for provides the salesman with a starting point and the fitter with a tailoring guide. If you are considering a different take on your usual habiliments, this same garment can also provide a basis for comparison.

Should you go to the store intending to make a purchase, you should bring a dress shirt whose fit satisfies you. The dress shirt is a key element in the suit-fitting process; its collar height and sleeve length inform the tailor how you expect those components of the jacket to fit. You should also bring along all the items you normally pack into your suit. If you wear a pocket square or an eyeglass case in your jacket, or keep a wallet in your back trouser pocket, your suit should be fitted to accommodate these items. The time invested in this preparation will minimize the probability that you will have to return to the store for an additional fitting after discovering that you bulging billfold makes your coat’s chest gap.

If shopping in a large store that offers a variety of suit styles and you do not have a relationship with any of its salespeople, spend a few minutes looking for one whose dressing style impresses you. Do not automatically accept the first sales associate to engage you unless you know exactly what you want and need him to act merely as an expediter. If you are looking for a high-fashion designer suit, the classically attired salesperson would not be my first choice to explain the nuances that distinguish an Armani three-button crepe suit from the latest Vestment confection.

Conversely, If you like to accessorize your more English-style suits with high-class furnishings, you might want to be attended to by someone whose taste demonstrates firsthand experience in such matters. The salesman who dresses as if he is interested in clothes usually regards his profession as something more than just an opportunity to bring home a regular paycheck. He prides himself in his taste and enjoys taking the extra effort to find something special. Ideally, in the course of your dialogue, he should be able to teach you something about how to dress better while assisting you with your decision-making.

FIT AND FABRIC


Compared to a decade ago, most men wear their clothes fuller in scale and lighter in weight. This means that today’s average suit jacket has slightly broader shoulders and a bit more length. Its pleated trousers are worn up on the natural waist with its fuller thighs tapering down to cuffed bottoms that break on the shoe. Much of this reapportionment is attributable to the high-fashion men’s design community’s search for a more modern yet comfortable vessel to replace the stuffy, boxlike structure of the conventional male business suit.

In the early stages of latest reconfiguration, the suit jacket’s dimensions were pushed outward to allow its softer and less padded shell to drape more fluidly from the wearer’s shoulders and around his torso. Textured, crepe-weave fabrics were introduced to enhance the sweater like cushiness of the more advanced designer Suitings. However, as the contemporary men’s suit started looking less like its old self and more like a piece of sportswear, men who required the articulation and dressiness of the more classically tailored ensemble began to make their preferences known.

The classic suit is returning, but like any garment caught up in the maelstrom of high fashion, it’s just not returning in quite the same form as when it left. While swinging back to its military roots, with enough shape and padding to recall its former prestige and purpose, men’s tailored clothing is now influenced by the more modern, drapey cloths. Previously, the only fabrics able to maintain such defined line and proper creases were the typical four-harness worsted from England and Italy. This is still the case. However, their tighter weaves and more substantial construction have now been made to feel soft and pliable. After you squeeze the fabric, the better cloths spring back without wrinkling. At the end of the day, a top-quality worsted wool suit still only needs to be hung out for a time to regain its pressed look.

This is not to suggest that all crepe like textured woolens or other soft high-twist cloths are inferior in quality or wear ability to the finer worsteds. Italy has created many exceptional fabrics that look sturdy but are light as feathers and fall as if tailored by gravity. It is true, however, that some less expensive, textured cloths will pull easier than the smoother worsteds and, if not tailored skillfully, will also not perform up to their potential. But the better, high-performance ones can be tailored by hand or by machine and still make you feel like a prince. However, if longevity is the objective, there is no substitute for the time-honored harder-finished worsteds. While they may not make you feel as languidly swathed, they will help a man convey a stature both confidently masculine and quietly measured.

...style and the man by Alan Flusser www.mycustomtailor.com