Clothes Do Make The Man ! - Or At Least The First Impression

Clothes Do Make The Man! - Or At Least The First Impression

"You never get a second chance to make a first impression"
-- Will Rogers

How important really is what we wear?
Is there a cause/effect in how we are treated by the world? Does it make a difference in getting someone to help you in a Department store, or being seated at a good table in a restaurant? Can’t people look through all the superficial and see the real us?

Fortunately, we have some scientific evidence to support what you wear does make a difference in how you influence the world around you. Maybe we didn’t want to believe (but suspected) the real reason that guy down the hall who always dressed great, but didn’t know poop is now a vice president!

When your credibility is crucial, in situations such as job interviews, court testimony, sales presentations and first dates (or even second and third dates) it is important to made a "good" first impression.

Behavioral scientists tell us that this "first impression" is a strong one. And the process of sizing you up is on a subconscious/emotional level of the brain. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less and can be so strong that it could take as much as five years to erase.

Don’t you think it’s easier to make a great first impression with you appearance and then follow up by showing what a capable, impressive and trustworthy person you are with a winning performance?

We’ve all heard the expression "You can’t judge a book by its cover". If you agree, it’s a good thing you’re not in publishing. Publishing houses have long since proven that a cover may not tell you what’s inside a book, but the cover is the reason that we pick up one or the other off the rack. Until a book is picked up, no sale is made!

A good example of "how you look being more important than what you say" is the first Kennedy-Nixon presidential debate. Radio listeners thought that Nixon had won while TV watchers gave Kennedy the win. Kennedy looked great, fresh and vigorous while Nixon appeared tired and rumpled. The TV audience gave more credibility to what they saw than what they heard.

When I describe someone as an assistant manger at a fast food restaurant you immediately conjure an image of that person, maybe without much conscious thought. When I mention a high level executive you get another, different image in your mind. There is a definite picture of a person with credibility, authority and power – a professional image.

Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and utilize the knowledge to enhance and control how you are accepted?

The research reports that people notice the following about another human being and in this order. Remember this is a prehistoric/subliminal evaluation.

1.Skin color
2.Sex
3.Age

We can do nothing about the first three, but we can work on the next four factors.

4.Bearing This includes height (taller people receive higher starting salaries), head movement (nodding is negative with regard to perception of authority) and body language (smiling is perceived as weakness if over done).

5.Appearance Since about 90% of us are covered by apparel, the clothing we choose makes a significant impact. This is such an important area, and on in which we can effect the greatest impression. We’ll discuss it detail below.

6.Direct Eye Contact Don’t stare, but look others in the eye 40 - 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide or that you don’t know what you are talking about.

7.Speech 55% of communication is non-verbal. It’s not what you say, but how you say it.


What you wear makes a difference in how you influence the world.
Why not take advantage of this. Since 90% of us is covered with clothing, the clothing you choose makes a significant impact and one area where we can effect the greatest impression!

Dressing badly can be taken as contempt for other people or the situation you are in. Clothing is a way to show others that you have respect and consideration for the situation. If you have respect for the theatre, you don’t show up in shorts and a T-shirt to a Broadway play. (The same goes for church, a job interview, etc.).

So it’s not a question of being judged. We are judged thousands of times everyday.

It’s a question of whether we want to have an affect on that judging or not.

Are we ready to see what we can do to present ourselves in the best package to project a credible, professional image?


Here are some basic tips, and faux pas to avoid in order to look your best:



1.Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.

2.Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men’s wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes. Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.

3.Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross you legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front. Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4.Wearing both a belt and braces (suspenders) make you look insecure. One or the other please. And if you opt for the braces, please make certain they are the kind that fasten inside your trousers with buttons.
It’s very easy to have a tailor or the alterations person at your dry cleaners put brace buttons on your pants if they don’t already have them. The metal clip-ons are for the guys who wear short sleeve shirts with ties.

5.Socks should match your trousers.

6.Belts should match your shoes in color and texture.
7.Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.


8.Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.

9.Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men’s jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend.



About Buttons on Mens Suits
Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.

With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.

Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.

Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.



10.Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing ½” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

11.No pens or pocket protectors in your shirt pocket. Pens go in your suit coat inside pocket, out of sight. Also applies to telephones, etc. worn on the belt. Think about getting a nice briefcase!

12.Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases accessibility.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.

Men’s clothing, unlike women’s, is more traditional and less fashion oriented. It takes several seasons for men’s designers to change even slightly the width of a necktie.

The male business suit is virtually unchanged in 70 years! Part of that is the progression to perfection that has resulted in attire that looks great on most men. The theory is once you reach perfection, don’t mess with it!

So why even bother with fashion? Why not choose acceptable classic clothing items and just stick with those?

It’s important to know what the trends are, so you can update your wardrobe periodically with the fashion items IF they fit your own style and body type.

You don’t want to still be wearing a light blue member’s only jacket and red polyester Sansabelt pants, do you?


We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Alan Flusser : Back To Basics

Alan Flusser? He is the man who dressed Michael Douglas’ Gordon Gekko character in the film Wall Street. He is an author of four informative books on men’s clothing and style. He is a dandy in the original sense of the term, a man who loves both clothes and to dress stylishly. I have always, admittedly, been a fan of his tastes. Recently, I had a special chance to meet up with Alan Flusser at his custom shop and play a different role than I had hitherto. It was special for several reasons. Not only is the man an award winning, industry driving force of style but he was also a heavy influence on my sartorial development.

It was also a different role for several reasons. In the past when speaking with Mr. Flusser I was ordinarily in the role of acolyte, fedora in hand, using it to catch as much of the cascade of stylish suggestions as I could manage. But this time, he was impressed enough to observe aloud that he had taught me well and that the sartorial circle was now complete. Many were the hours he would instruct me in the stylish ways of the dark side. Dark side because his style is aggressive, it has attitude; it is not for the meek. His tastes are the proverbial iron fist in the custom made, velvet glove. When you wear clothes designed or chosen for you by Alan Flusser, you are as a dandy wolf amongst sheep.

So here I was, in the Style Wolf’s lair, and eager to write an incredible article about my mentor, to put some back in the kitty, as they say. I had an entire list of advanced dandy-esque items and stances I wanted to discuss with him. Everything from the types and shapes of shirt collars suitable for pinning to the most beautiful type of cuff one could place on a suit jacket’s sleeve. Mr. Flusser, however, though always willing to discuss such stylistic minutiae with a fellow dandy was a bit vexed. He enlightened me to the fact that my questions were set in a selfish font, fit only for the interpretations of the already degreed dresser.

Advanced secrets about how to stay in front of the style curve may be fascinating for a select few, but what of everyone else? What possible use would the average but aspiring to “smart” dresser derive from my interview – from his words? We decided on reciting the mantra on the basics of dressing well that, once mastered, will enable anyone to get in touch with their sartorial chi and from there develop their own unique style.

People learn to dress well by observing other people who already dress well. It sounds so easy, and it is. However, in our modern era, the number of the walking well dressed dwindles constantly. It has reached the point that several large fashion houses have a very hard time teaching their employees to dress well because of a dearth of suitable examples for them to learn from. As a matter of fact, there remain only a handful of department stores in the USA where you can rely on the taste of both the establishment and their staff to guide you properly in an approach to classic dressing.

The only other resources available are magazines, many of which have no committed interest (or ability) these days to teach men to dress both stylishly and timelessly. Perhaps that is why this age of the designer lasts so long. Similar to fantasy writing, there need be no research or analysis (or even taste) for designers to come up with “original” fashions; simple fancies of the imagination suffice to justify new, and often pricey, looks. Therefore, for the moment, unless a man is fanatical about clothes and style, it is rather hard to learn the basics.

And the basics, says Mr. Flusser, is really what it is all about. Although the basics should, theoretically, be extraordinarily easy for any man to learn, the information is not readily available. Thus that which should be easy to obtain has become painfully hard to uncover. Indeed, one has to be a veritable style Egyptologist excavating (in your single breasted three button vanilla wafer shaded suit, of course) long abandoned sartorial tombs and temples.

We now live in a world where there are so many different visions about what constitutes proper dress that it boggles the mind which tries to determine in what direction to go in or how to assert a sense of consistency. However, all current men’s tailored styles emanate from the common stem of having to wear a shirt and tie, even if the style ultimately arrived at by a man is tie-less. It seems thus plausible that a starting point revolves around the basics of getting everyone to do this well for themselves. The assumption is that the great bulk of serious men want to dress in a way that makes them look smart and not foolish. That is why it is best to have one common look for men, which they can use as a palette to mix their own stylish tints from.

According to Flusser, the business casual revolution is apparently over. Even the fashion industry itself is glad to rid itself of that garment guillotine if only because of the difficulties the industry already faced trying to teach men how to properly wear a basic shirt and tie. To make matters worse, the industry discovered that it was incrementally more difficult to teach men (and in fact define in their own professional minds) the basics of business casual. Business casual hasn’t a strong lineage and items had to appear both casual and business-like at once, and where were the experts for that coming from?


Now we understand that to be stylish does not just entail the buying of clothes, it is also about learning to select clothes properly and dress well. Mr. Flusser maintains that historical knowledge of the origins (or development of clothes) is both useless and of little interest to the modern man aspiring to dress both well and effectively for his purposes. There are rather certain things “of the moment” that need to be addressed, what suit silhouette (the pattern and scale of the suit’s cut) will look good on the wearer and remain useful over time.

Additionally, the color of a man’s hair and pigmentation play a part in what colors and combinations will look good on him. And seeing that he looks good in certain items, this will serve to excite him further about continuing on a journey to develop sensibilities about dressing well. Usually this type of advice on style goes to only those spending large amounts of money for custom clothes. However, Alan thinks this is a shame and that this information should be readily available to everyone. That is why he is offering a more affordable made to measure clothing service which includes advice on accoutrements that compliment both the outfit and the wearer. It is hoped by Monsieur Flusser that younger men will learn to thus command their own destinies when it comes to choosing articles of clothes in the proper patterns, fabrics and colors.

Does Alan think that having a large variety of outfits, or being able to or willing to wear a large variety of outfits makes one a good dresser? Yes, once a person has gotten the mantra of the basics down cold. However, we are talking Dantean 9th circle of hell cold. Additionally, the most important ingredient of clothes and dressing well is comfort, followed by fit and style for one’s build and occupation, then quality, design of the garment itself and, finally, color choice (depending on the specific coloration of the individual being clothed).

Although it is true that Alan dresses in the most modern way imaginable during his leisure hours, it must be pointed out that he was raised in an affluent East coast suburb, and attended an Ivy League school and thus was exposed to the natural shouldered/Paul Stuart look rather early. He has transcended this look but the ability to understand its basics and importance for the professional man remains paramount in his mind.

And he is of the mind that for the ordinary person who wants to learn to dress in a sophisticated way, the jumping off point will always be a navy (or dark) solid suit, white shirt, navy tie, navy socks, black shoes and white pocket square. This look must be mastered before branching out. It must be worn well, which means you must be firing on all style cylinders. These include: cleanliness, upkeep/condition, quality, design, fit, proportion, construction, weight and the texture of all items/elements must mesh with each other and be appropriate for the season or weather.

It simply cannot be stressed enough how important it is to achieve this classic and yet often elusive basic step. Alan maintains that if you do master this look, and it really isn’t hard if you receive the right information, you will be better dressed than ninety five percent of men walking around in midtown Manhattan. One would not think that Navy suit, white shirt, navy socks, navy tie and black shoes would be a stumbling block to style but there are a number of men interested in clothes who seem to gloss over this stylistic foundation and head right to the suede shoes, windowpane suit and boldly colored shirt counter. The result is that they fail to learn the importance of fit, comfort and design that flatter them eternally rather than give them that fleeting fashion fix.

The word is out now in the form of the first dandy mantra, that if you want to become a stylish dresser, then you must master the basics of navy and white. As pedestrian as it may seem when there are an abundance of patterns and colors in every clothing store, one’s first step is restraint and rejection of the sensational in favor of the handsome, dignified and important. Simplicity is seldom far from elegance. Perhaps to the western mind, it helps to approach this like an empirical scientific theorem, needing constant proof. Apply this proof throughout your sartorial pursuits and you will eventually find yourself well dressed. All you need really do to become a Lord of the Sartorial Sith is read the first four chapters of his recent book Dressing the Man to invoke the elementals of dressing properly and, in this age of plebian dishabille, well.


We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Wear Hats Properly

There are two degrees of politeness demonstrated by a gentleman wearing a hat:


Lifting or tipping it, which you generally do for strangers.
Taking it off, which you generally do for friends (or in some cases, as a sign of patriotism or reverence).
Both are done as a sign of respect toward the other and dignity toward oneself.

Tipping your hat is a conventional gesture, done by barely lifting it off your head with your right hand (or the left hand if the right hand is occupied): By the crown of a soft hat, or the brim of a stiff one. Your cigarette, pipe or cigar should always be taken out of your mouth before removing or tipping your hat. This is a subtle gesture that should not be confused with bowing.


A man takes off his hat outdoors (and indoors):
1. When he is being introduced to someone, or when saying goodbye to a woman, elder, friend or ;
2. As a greeting when passing someone he knows, particularly a lady, on the street (In some cases, tipping or lifting a hat and bowing slightly may be used as a substitute for removing a hat, as a passing gesture);
3. While talking, particularly with a woman, an older man, or a clergyman;
4. While the National Anthem is being played, or the American Flag is passing;
5. At a funeral or in the presence of a passing funeral procession,
6. When speaking to another of a virtuous woman or a dearly departed loved one.

A man tips or lifts his hat:
1. When walking with a friend who passes a woman only the friend knows;
2. Any time a lady who is a stranger thanks you for some service or assistance;
3. Any time you excuse yourself to a woman stranger, such as if you accidentally disturb or jostle her in a crowd, or when you ask for pardon when passing in a tight space or when forced to walk between two people that are conversing, particularly if one is a woman;

4. Any time a stranger shows courtesy to a woman you are accompanying, such as when a man or woman picks up something she has dropped, or a man opens a door for her or gives her his seat;
5. When you ask a woman (or an elderly man) for directions.

Indoors, a man should always remove his hat, (particularly in a home, church, courtroom or restaurant) except:
1. In some public buildings or public places such as railroad stations or post offices;
2. In the main parlor area of a saloon or general store;
3. or while seated at the "lunch counter" of a diner or cafe;
4. In entrance halls and corridors of office buildings, or hotels;
5. In elevators of public or office buildings, unless a woman is present;
6. If carrying packages, parcels or bags and both hands are occupied upon entry.
7. If the man is an actor or performer and the hat is being worn as a part of a costume or performance.


If in doubt, it is best for a gentleman to remove his hat indoors as soon as practical. It is considered a sign of contempt and/or disrespect to leave your hat on when it would be proper to remove it. These rules of course applied in the day when everyone wore hats. Rebelious liberals in the early 1960s began the movement of no hats, following the example of then President Kennedy. Today, hats do not signify a political stance, and do not signify RULES. However, there are times when it would seem appropriate to remove your hat. Today, hats, sunglasses, etc are accepted to be worn anywhere, anytime. What you wear and when you wear it are part of your individuality, and that's why hats are today again increasing in popularity. If everyone wore a hat, it really wouldn't be special, would it?



PORTIONS EXCERPTED FROM EVIL SWEDE'S GUIDE TO PROPER HAT ETIQUETTE, THE "COWBOY CHRONICLE" & THE ESSENTIAL HANDBOOK OF VICTORIAN ETIQUETTE

We remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Pleather - What Is Going On with Artificial Leather This Season

As we look forward to the upcoming new season, we must also look forward to the fabrics that will continue to cling to our winter-sized bodies. The past year has seen the resurgence of one fabric that has spawned a trend revolution: pleather. The fabrics and fashions of the 1970’s have been popular for nearly a decade now, but no other fabric has managed to reclassify itself as well as pleather (polyurethane film).
Pleather’s popularity has increased quickly due to its less expensive price, ease of care, versatility, and animal friendly existence. On average, the price of pleather costs three times less than its true leather counterpart. Some consumers view purchasing leather as a large commitment, considering how infrequently leather clothing, aside from winter jackets, may be worn.
Leather is also much more difficult and expensive to clean; pleather on the other hand, can be wiped off with a mild detergent and a warm cloth. This synthetic fabric can be worn more frequently than its non-synthetic counterpart. The simple care routine will ensure a longer life for pleather garments, making them nearly as reliable and durable as true leather garments.
The versatility of pleather is also one of its strongest attraction points. Pleather can be made into any garment, even surpassing leather in its usage. Pleather is being utilized by us for all types of pant styles, including jeans, chic hip-huggers, boot cuts, capris, clam diggers, and cropped or "short pants." This material also makes a sexy wrap skirt, a flattering miniskirt, or a classic style a-line skirt. Pleather lends itself to lines that are mass-produced, as well as looks that a custom tailor made for each wearer.

Animal friendly fabrics have softened the tension between the fashion industry and its worst enemy: the animal rights activist. Pleather has helped usher in a new appreciation for synthetic fabrics, and is the most common alternative to luxury animal fabrics. Pleather is now the trendy way to support your position on animal rights without sacrificing your fashion savvy.
Thus you may benefit from the flexibility of a fabric like pleather. The elastic nature of this pleather film makes it a more attractive purchase when freedom of movement is a strong consideration. Pleather is a porous film that breathes easily, yet may also be lined with other fabrics for warmth and insulation. Mature consumers enjoy making a fashion statement without having to sacrifice comfort or mobilarity.
Pleather is a rare, all-encompassing fabric that compliments anyone with enough fashion savvy to put in on. At the height of its former popularity, it was a "members only" fabric; only a select few were young, cheesy and small enough to wear it.
We can feel more comfortable in pleather knowing that its an inclusive, stylish fabric that gives us all a chance to show off our savoir-faire. Asking yourself whether to pleather is asking yourself if you feel like being hip, modern, and in vogue. It doesn’t take more than fashion sense to know that we want to be all of those things, and pleather has presented us with the perfect opportunity to do just that!
Hence, we strongly recommend the use of pleather over leather.

We remain with best regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

do's and don'ts

What to Wear to a Wedding -


Wedding guest style for her



Informal Daytime: Short dress or suit (business attire OK for morning weddings)

Informal Evening: Cocktail dress

Semi-Formal Daytime: Short dress or suit

Semi-formal Evening: Cocktail dress

Formal Daytime: Short dress or suit. Hats and gloves optional.

Formal Evening or Black-Tie: Long or dressy short cocktail (beading, glam accessories, wrap)

Ultra-formal or White Tie: Long gown, extra glitz (furs, diamonds, etc.)

Do's and Don'ts for Her



Don't wear white because it competes with the bride. There are plenty of other colors available.

Don't wear black or sequins during the daytime.

Don't worry about wearing the same colors as the bridesmaids or mothers. You can't possibly coordinate with everyone in the wedding party.

Do wear something feminine and appropriate, out of respect for your hosts. Clubwear, overtly sexy clothing (strapless, see-through, etc) doesn't belong at a wedding.If you have to ask if it's appropriate, it probably isn't.

Don't wear opera-length gloves (to top of arm) with anything but sleeveless or strapless gowns.



Do take off gloves to eat or drink.

Do use good judgment if the invitation doesn't specify the formality of the event. A pastel suit or soft floral dress for daytime or a little black dress for evening (after 6 p.m.) will take you almost anywhere.

Wedding Style for him



Informal Daytime: Dress shirt and pants, preferably a sports jacket.

Informal Evening: Suit

Semi-Formal Daytime: Suit

Semi-Formal Evening: Dark suit

Formal Daytime: Dark suit and tie

Formal Evening: Tuxedo (if invitation states "black tie") or dark suits if women wear short dresses.

Ultra-formal Evening or White Tie: White tie, cummerbund, vest and shirt.

Do's and Don'ts for Him



Don't try to get cute with a tuxedo. A black tux with white shirt and black bow tie is the best way to go. If "Creative Black Tie" or "Texas Formal" or some sort of other vague formal description is used, then going with a tux and black shirt, no tie, might be acceptable. Also, trendier cities like Los Angeles and New York might be more accepting of breaking with tradition.

Do wear a dark suit, with a tie if the wedding is after 6 PM, and doesn't say "Black Tie."

Don't wear a tuxedo during the day time, regardless of the formality of the event.

Do use good judgment if the invitation doesn't specify the formality of the event. A dark suit and conservative tie will take you just about anywhere.

By Cynthia Nellis

We reamin with best regards,
Yours E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Style This Season

Ravi the online Custom Tailor says suits are making a big comeback this fall, and many men are returning to "Classic Tailored Clothing." Dressy, business suits are in demand again, as professional men strive to project a more serious, confident image in their work environment. "As the business casual trend recedes and we work toward regaining the economic momentum of the pre-internet bubble burst, we instinctively reach for touchstones of that period and apparel is a big part of that change." Ravi says. "So many men are definitely re-examining their business habits and wearing suits again."


The trends are towards traditional, classic, "British" inspired tailored clothing:

Darker suits - many with bold confident pinstripes - some with vests - again, a traditionl approach
Very colorful, boldly stiped dress shirts - often with very British inspired spread colors and higher collars.
Striped neckwear is back in a big way to complete that traditional look of success.
As men return to the suit market for the first time in a decade or so (for some younger men, it may be for the first time in their career) many are looking for signature elements to their personal style and "old-fashioned" quality workmanship - as opposed to mass produced clothing. As Chicago´s leading custom tailor since 1929, this is where Ravis Custom Tailors has seen a big increase in interest as men seek out unique and personal attire made to fit perfectly and last a long time.


We remain with best regards, your E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Fashionable Fabrics For Mens Suits And Shirts

Fabrics Offer Comfort and Elegant Fit for New Fashions
In the past thirty-five years of the clothing business, a continuing trend toward comfort has continually emerged as a predominant concern. Thanks to technological advances, warmth is no longer measured by fabric weight. Fabrics are being loomed with a lighter "ounce-weight" that is infinitely more wearable. These woolens, with their elegant hand and luxurious drape, are as lightweight as silks.

Lightweight Drape Suits - Today´s More Casual Look
These lighter weight fabrics are perfect for the more casual selections that so many men are making these days. The next addition to your wardrobe may well be a handsome blazer, or perhaps a sport jacket featuring the softer, more casual construction that is so popular today. The shoulders may be more natural, with a light shaping in the waist. The drape of the fabric can emphasize these details, while retaining an unmistakable air of authority. Imagine this look in a rich black cashmere, lightweight but with a sumptuous feel, paired with black-and-white plaid slacks. Or choose a patterned piece for a jacket that can be teamed with a variety of solid slacks in a Super 100 or Super 110 weight.

Color Signals Change of Seasons
With today´s lighter suiting weights, so appropriate for any except for the coldest of winter climates, it´s often color that signals seasonal change. For instance, a recent shipment of fall/winter Super- Fine woolens from Loro Piana included a dark navy blue with fine threads of red and gold. Another fabric appeared to be solid charcoal, but actually incorporated a very subtle plaid in teal and burgundy. For those who favor brown tones, olive or taupe garments can make a beautiful fall-to-winter transition for an existing wardrobe.
Our new fall/winter selection of ties can help emphasize the subtle tones in either color palette and open up new vistas for accessorizing in tones of royal blue, teal and hunter green, through shades of gold, orange and brown, to rich magentas and deep purples. They can even help extend the life of your favorite summer garments, perhaps aided by a change in shirt color.

Black is Back
Black continues to be a strong color this season. It can take whatever you want to dish out, when it comes to accessorizing with strong fall/winter colors; it´s also a great choice for special evening events and anything "holiday."
A black suit can be as elegant as a tuxedo, making the transition from the workday to an evening function with a simple change of accessories. Consider a shirt with French cuffs and stunning cuff links, or a silk tie that´s perhaps a little more attention-getting than you might wear for work.

Springing Ahead
Even as we discuss fashions appropriate for the next couple of months, forward-thinking individuals are already considering spring and summer wardrobe needs.
They´re in step with fabric designers; the first swatch books for the coming season are already here. Orders placed now for spring and summer suits will be ready for Spring´s first warm breath!


from The Culture Cafe

We remain with best regards
your E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com